Isuzu 4FB1 overhaul/resto-mod for CJ5 conversion

[joeshmoe44883]

I found this: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm- ... 663?page=2

Guy says the correct thermoking gp is a 2942, your posts says you ordered the 2922

[DieselJeep]

viewtopic.php?t=23210

Major Huge Recognition to Pass12Me.

Wish I had found my original receipt, or found where I had obtained the original part number.

[jmerber]

I ran the TD04HL-15t on my c223 s10. Great boost performance! I had mine blowing through a lot of intercooler piping and a massive 3x12x24 intercooler. Even then, boost was near instantaneous.

I have bought two of them off Saabs, and both were in impecable condition, and extremely clean. I'm a huge fan of these!

[DieselJeep]

That is great to hear! What was your max boost at @ what rpm redline? Curious about your rough boost numbers from a slightly larger motor at lower redline so I have a rough round-about idea of what to expect. I do knowf I were going for max HP, calculations show I would actually need a larger turbo...

Delays interfering with turbo/C223T IP install. The front diff is toast, making some horrible squealing noise, so I have to rebuild it. So a @$600 delay. Luckily I have a former GM die maker/pro stock chassis builder(helped with the rear driveshaft welding) to help set lash and preload for a killer labor price. The Dana 30 has a lot of tolerances to set simultaneously. Not for the ill impatient/equipped if any longevity is to be expected. Still have rear axle to deal with as well... Old Heep junk! Dang thing will be 100% overhauled by that point!

Still not 100% decided on turbo manifold design. The area I have to mount the turbo away from the brake lines, hood height clearance, and making the design efficient/worth my time effort. Can't stand log style manifolds, which bounce #1 and #4(or 6) exhaust pulses between each other, not INTO the turbo... Then having to force 4 1.5" primaries into a 40MM turbine inlet... EFFICIENTLY. I also have to re-position/re-TIG the necks on the radiator, buy an intercooler, remount radiator and intercooler assembly, buy all the silicone connectors, piping, clamps. Want to have all parts on hand before delving into it. Still have to actually MAKE the manifold, which is a big project in itself.

Probably going to give in and mount a manually bypass-able lift pump. I know it will run without one, but in the quest for more power, best I use one.

[FiatSpider2]

On my 4fB1 with the single piece box tubing/log exhaust manifold bolted flat up against the side of the head the only issue (aside from not being the most efficient design) is clearance between the intake adapter over the vacuum pump and regulator wiring on the alternator. I have the IHI RHB51-4954 VF1 turbo with the 2 1/2 inch inlet with a 2 1/2 to 3 inch silicone adapter going into a 3 inch plastic 90 degree elbow with a Spectre Cone filter on it and the adapter over time sagged allowing the steel band clamp to short out the regulator inside the alternator. $195 later I am back on the road after having the Hitachi alternator rebuilt and the vacuum pump cleaned up which thankfully is still in good shape. Considering a mod to the air filter plumbing or at least putting a steel shield over the regulator wires to protect them from the air filter elbows band clamp. Have yet to put a gauge on to determine the boost levels.

[assquatch20]

Hey, just joined up here. I've been studying this swap over Google for some time now. I even see another CJ with one for sale, although I'm unsure if it's AMC or not.

I've got two CJ5's myself. One is AMC with a good drivetrain and frame. I'm probably selling it soon, but the Willys I have is hopefully getting this same motor. I'm a Chevette guy and have a 4FB1 + 5sp lined up. Getting the right tailshaft and cases won't be too hard as I'm willing to swap diffs, but your thread should be a great help.

Not to hijack it, but I'm curious what additional problems the Willys might lend itself to in this swap. It's slightly different under the hood, but I'm thinking the motor won't be too tall. Shifter location could be way off as well. I've still gotta go pick up the drivetrain.

[JoeIsuzu]

Not to hijack it...

I'd like to welcome you properly, but I'd also be contributing to this topic going off-topic. We normally try to welcome new members post their "intro" posts. Would you be so kind?

Thanks.
Jack

[DieselJeep]

A short crappy phone vid.
Overwhelms my friend's phone mic with all of the diesel clatter and bassy exhaust thump of the Flowmaster in a 2 stall metal building.
You can hear the intake sound very well during the rev. Yes, that is probably @ 5,400 rpm.
My bud said you can hear the bass note of the exhaust from a good way away, and it'd definitely a diesel.
https://youtu.be/d4ykSon2XWg

Such a crappy vid, I really need to post a good one soon.

[assquatch20]

Sounds great. Looks awesome. This has become a big inspiration. Good work, man.

[DieselJeep]

TY Sir. Been so worth all the work. The 4FB1 has been an AMAZING lil motor. So glad the project ended up with it, despite the challenges of using a fairly rare, under appreciated Isuzu diesel. Especially at times like this:
About share some Jeep <3 with a youngster this past weekend. The most rewarding activity for me as an Old Jeep caretaker!

[DieselJeep]

So the turbo reinstall has been delayed again. Stupid bills, and love of an old Heep that was abused.
I have to purchase axles, or rebuild mine. I found a guy who has some stock axles that are in excellent condition, that would only need fresh oil, and my new brake hardware and bits swapped over. It's OK though. Turbo can wait. Content with "Slow and Loud", and totally confident in my manhood with my intimidating 60HP Isuzu Diesel! HEEEEEEEEE!

Another "longer term" project I am working on:
Being as 15" tires are expensive, and only a handful of manufacturers still make them, I am working towards 16" wheels and tires. I will then be able to play with tire height and width, reducing my rolling resistance(+ economy), contact patch(+ grip), and rotational mass(+ economy and acceleration). SO, as if I opened a Summit catalog or whatev, and bought 5 steel wheels, I would be looking at @ $500 for wheels that are too fancy and modern. Being as I am striving for a military look and feel build, I can't live with "bought" options. Even the farm truck wheels available have dual pattern lug holes, and are @ 120 APIECE! If I have to spend $500 for wheels that are 16", I will build 100% CUSTOM wheels. Surprised yet? lol

SO I scored 5 original, Kelsey Hays CJ3-early CJ5 Jeep wheels(these are not mine, or the rarer KH wheels, buta DL'd example of early Jeep wheels), with unusable tire rings, for a whopping outlay of $50. I will cut the 4 1/2" tire ring off, true them in a lathe or turntable on a end mill, and weld a 7" tire ring to the original Jeep hub centers. Seems the E350 ford HD 16x7's have a tire relief wide enough to give the large offset I need, and should be common and fairly inexpensive.

Disclaimer: IF you ever try to do something similar, the hardest part is to find ANYONE that has a lathe big enough(@ 20" head), or a turntable for a Bridgeport or other end mill, can professionally TIG weld, actually answers their phone(heh heh). AND is actually willing to be so confident in the quality of their work that liability isn't a concern for a street driven vehicle. But I have that covered, as of yesterday. Local guy who is a buddy's buddy.
Envision these with a 4" or so deep "lip":

16CJ steelies.jpg (56.73 KiB) Viewed 29586 times

[DieselJeep]

So after life, getting married, and distracted by the '58 desoto..

FINALLY back to the Jeep, and getting the MHI turbo installed on the 4FB1!! Manifold mock up currently happening!!!
Will be a few months till a running installed vid, but it IS happening this year!!

To justify the delays, I've included a few pics of what I have been distracted with:

[reidspup]

I have a few 4fb1 parts you might be interested in. Cheap. New pistons, rings, head gasket and I think an entire gasket kit along with rebuilt starter and alternator and an entire dismantled rust free engine. And other stuff I can't remember. There is a sad stories that is associated with these parts.
I would like to clear out the storage and find a good home for this stuff.

[reidspup]

Also a 4fb1 IP

[DieselJeep]

So after almost 4 years of distractions, I FINALLY built a stainless turbo manifold for the 4FB1 diesel in the CJ5.

There was some "miscommunication", and the perfectly formed and fitted pieces weren't tacked together as I instructed. So I had to buy another T304 mandrel U-bend, and fit the #1 and #4 primary to the existing pieces, as I was unwilling to completely throw away so many hours of work carefully, precisely, fitting the cut/shaped pieces together.

The geometry is a little off on the #4, but the finished product will still direct the exhaust pulses from all 4 cylinders directly into the turbo, and breathe insanely better, than any factory diesel turbo manifold out there. VERY proud that each primary centerline is within 1.5" of each other, from the head to turbo flange, in ONLY a 12"x6" area. This will equalize each cylinders breathing, equalize the timing of each pulse as it occurs, and make the most power possible.