A trooper revived

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:30 am

Thanks for the feedback! Its definitely not the quickest project.

mike71800b · Post by **mike71800b** » Wed Nov 21, 2012 12:50 am

May well be one of the coolest though, have you considered pocketing the valves deeper and radiusing from the recessed seat into the combusion area to reduce the cr? It could help with flow at the same time, shim up the rocker towers and springs to match how much the valves were sunk to preserve geometry, tip saw a pushrod in half and connect the two with a threaded section to make an adjustable pushrod to get all right again.
Im not sure there is enough surface area on the two valve faces to drop enough compression points but that could be easily calculated.

Im guessing you had the c223 block and main caps line bored to fit the main bearings for the c240 crank, so what about the extra 10 mm of stroke and piston protrusion? Custom head spacer? Or am i missing something? 240 rods with 223 pistons?

Keep in mind stroking 10mm changes the rod angle through the stroke and will probably lower the rpm limit of the rod. Conversely the piston will be traveling faster for a given rpm with longer stroke and same rod length so cylinder fill will be better at low rpm. That extra crank mass will be nice in a trooper too i bet. I can't remember where but recall someone adding a 10lb ring to their c223 flywheel in a trooper to be able to crawl steeper hills loaded without stalling.
Nice build

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Thu Nov 22, 2012 3:28 pm

thank you for the compliment! the initial plan was to grind the main journals down to match the 223. my sisters boyfriend works as a machinist at a very high performance crank shop, callies crankshaft. however we measured that it would need to be gound .400" thousands, almost a half inch for those who dont speak machinist lol. doing this would most definitely go beyond the hardening, and would make the journals awfully thin at the oiling holes. this option hasnt been ruled out yet, but next idea was to line bore the 223 block to accept the larger crank. so i flipped my block over on the engine stand and confirmed that the c240s main caps would bolt and seal up fine on the c223. however it wouldnt leave much meat in the thrust bearing area, so i need to take it to the machine shop and see if they can build up that area and then machine it.
I havent taken the head off the 240 to pull the pistons and rods to measure, but the 240 block is a half inch taller from crank centerline to deck. so i would think that even with 5mm more stroke at tdc, that the 240 must have a bit longer rods to keep the cr at 21:1. I could bore the 240 to accept the industrial 223 liners, and possibly use the 223 shorter rods to lower cr, but i really really want to keep this as an original motor buildup.
I will hopefully have a cylinder head tomorrow. this will be taken to a friend of mine, he is going to cut the head apart in sections to see if we can convert the head to direct injection. if we can, i will take him a good head to convert for testing. The plan then is to order a piston from the direct injected 223 that is known as a d201 and was used in the thermoking reefer units. these share nothing with our c223 engines, other than they have the exact same bore (88mm) and you can still buy oversized pistons for it.
I will have some rods machined from billet that will give me the compression ratio i want, will accept the wrist pin of the d201 piston, and will have an offset cap to help with the clearencing of the new crank. alot of things have to come together for all this to work out, and if its successful, i may consider doing conversions or a conversion kit.
i figured redline would have to be reduced, but i dont know how much. maybe backing it from 4400 rpms, to 4000? direct injecting it will also slow revs down, will just have to go with it and see what happens. if somethin breaks, fix or replace it an try again! Still have to develop the controller for turbo, plumb the intercooler, make some manifolds, and the engine will be done. then its on to redoing the body and frame. income tax season is right around the corner so that should move the project along a lil bit quicker lol. i love hearing feedback and ideas so if you have any please share!

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:49 pm

If anyone is following this thread, theres some really neat updates coming. Waiting on a couple parts to show and then i have to get to my laptop to post the pics.

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Tue Dec 25, 2012 11:11 am

been pretty busy on the ol 223t. i finally got some tools in to finally let me use my small hobby mill. i've decided to go "all out" on this motor build an see how much it can handle. i have more pictures but there on a different camera, these are just the ones i took from my phone.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Dec 25, 2012 11:58 pm

Joe--

This is a bit off of your thread but I want to thank you for the excellent cross section photo of the head just where you have it.

Reason is, that is where the cracks between the valve seats tend to occur. I wonder if you know if there was a crack between these two valve seats? What I (and probably others) am wondering is how far these cracks might extend towards the cooling passage.

Paul

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:45 pm

Paul-

Good thought! The original head that was on my motor was cracked in 3 of the cylinders, you couldnt see it until i had it magnafluxed. This head didnt get that treatment so i am unsure if it is cracked. Ill have to go out and measure to see how thick the metal is between the valves. Seems that it would have to get mighty dang hot to crack all the way through.

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:39 pm

Just measured it, just under 10mm thick, or 3/8ths of an inch of metal. Would be neat to cut a cracked head an see how deep the crack goes in.

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:33 pm

Some more pics for you guys

shooter · Post by **shooter** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:43 pm

Super stuff. Don't know squat about diesels or gas burners for that matter however I do recognize beef, innovation and good ol' gray matter when I see it. Keep the updates coming. Super work.

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:04 pm

Thank you shooter. Its been nice to get back on the project an show some progress, but im going to be going down to north an south carolina for a few months to work so there wont be much updating

.

shooter · Post by **shooter** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:03 pm

It'll be worth the wait. Good luck over there.

Backfromthedead · Post by **Backfromthedead** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:27 am

Wow this is some impressive work! Keep up the good work I intend to creep this build and see where it goes, well done!

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 12:04 pm

Thank you, im currently awaiting an email, a diesel magazine might do a feature story on this build. But everything is on hold till end of march. Im gonna try to see what resources i can pull together, and look into casting a new crossflow, direct injected head for these motors. Improve power an mpgs at the same time.

joeshmoe44883 · Post by **joeshmoe44883** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:34 am

Got an update for everyone, i got a small package yesterday that was a BIG deal. I had researched for months and it was one of 2 options for converting a C223T over to direct injection, and it fit the bill better than i had expected. Turns out the direct injection pistons out of an isuzu D201 thermoking engine fit perfect for this motor. The wrist pin is 2mm bigger, which isnt a big deal to bore out the bushing in the connecting rod. It is also 3mm longer, and has .5mm thicker wall than the factory C223T. Which means its a heavier duty wrist pin that should be up to taking the abuse im gonna throw at it. enjoy the pics.