How does the pump on the generator work?

[Boltass]

Any way to find out which one of those transmission "codes" is on the truck?
MSG-5C
MSG-5ET
there are similar ones with the number 4 which would probably be the four speed gearboxes?

[francis.hamre]

Also does anyone know where to find the driveshaft seal to the transmission?

I found it on rockauto.com just now (output shaft seal). I don't know if you can get on that website or not but it is a great source of parts for me.

If you can at least get to that website, you can use it to find part numbers, then put that part number into eBay or another website that will ship to you.

Any idea which one it might be?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/isu ... +seal,8792
They all seem to be diffrent sizes
Would be ashame to have to drain the gearbox to check haha

I believe those in the link you sent me are all the same size seal...meaning that if you have a 5 speed they should all be compatible. The Timken, BCA, and National are seals I would trust. However, having bought a lot of parts on that website I would say there's a 10% chance you end up with a new old stock seal that has been sitting on a shelf for 20 years and the rubber won't last as long as it should. My suggestion is buy two seals...whichever two come from the same shipping location (you'll see a truck icon after you pick the first one you want if it's from the same location). That way if one turns out to be a dud you have a spare. Not sure what you're seeing but the price they're showing me is a fraction of what a parts store would charge....so it's not gonna break the bank to buy two.

[isuzu Specialities]

In response to an 'integral regulator' mentioned above, I'm referring to the voltage regulator that's built into the alternator. It's the same device you provided the link to. And, I just looked at Rock Auto, they indeed say they accept Swedish Krona (SEK) and ship there as well. But it sounds like you got it going again, so congrats! /R

Yes the brushes worked.
However i seem to be onto something about the regulator because today i held a multimeter to the powercables running into the car and noticed something disturbing..
At idle the voltage read 13v pretty steadily, however when revving up the engine it quickly climbed to 14v and more. Basically the higher i was revving the higher the voltage, and it was steady at whatever rpm i was on. When i was approaching the "rpm limit" the voltage read almost 15v! This would definetly be a fault of the internal regulator? Thinking back to it the car came with a pretty much dead battery and most likely had that for quite some time, this overcharging would also be a reason for the carbon brushes to wear down faster aswell? The ones i replaced had just 2-3mm left on them.

If you have a draft tube, the oil separator is the part that the draft tube is attached to, on the pushrod galley.

Jack

Yes i "found" it right next to the fuel filter thanks!

The return of the engine oil is performed by the vacuumed pumps discharge hose that is also connected to the engine.

The amount of volume the pump moves is so small it will not affect blow by of your engine.

The alternator is repaired like another alternator once you remove the vacuum pump from the rear. Worn brushes have a symptom of erratic alternator output, Overvoltage, under voltage or overcharge/undercharge is a symptom of a failed regulator. Low output and radio interference is a symptom of a failed rectifier.

Alright thanks this cleared alot up for me.
Do you know if anyone sells these hoses for these alternators? Ive found "similair" new generators with the pump attatched but not found any hoses for sale and i think i read somewhere here that they were hard to find ...
I think i will just order a new alternator for the truck but replacing the hoses will probably be needed since the large one between the alternator and engine block is already leaking a tiny bit.

My friend said that you could just press your own but i need to look up how to do that properly before tearing it all down.

the oil hoses are nothing special. if you have a hard tube for the oil supply they are easily made with a tube bender and by soldering new or reusing your old fittings onto. Any local hose shop can also make you one for 30-ish bucks. if you have a rubber return hose matching a similar hose at any local auto parts store is your best option. Your output shaft seal has its part number etched onto it. Remove the seal, clean it off & match up a replacement at your local auto parts store, bearing supply company or online catalog. This seal is an international ISO standardized part, by no means is it anything special.

[Boltass]

A good hydraulic can cut the banjo fittings off the old lines and replace the rubber line. They'll have to be sure to get the orientation of the fittings correct before crimping them to the new rubber line. Also, they'll have to cut the old crimp off and braze/silver solder maybe a new flare crimp section onto the old banjo part. Then add the rubber hose and crimp. Use new copper or aluminum washers on either side of the banjo fittings otherwise it'll just leak. 2 different sizes I think. Do NOT overtightened the banjo bolt or you'll snap it off. It's hollow. The shop may have new banjo fittings where you are.

Thanks.
I have a new alternator ordered from rockauto, will replace it and try to find someone that can replace this rubber piece.
Do you know if it would be possible to perform this repair DIY?
Since it is such a small hose there might be some fitting crimping tools that can be found on some smaller auto-stores.
I will post pictures and updates when i replace it.
Also, do you know if i need to drain the oil before replacing this alternator? i have seen the oil line goes pretty far down onto the block. Alternator replacements usually are not too complicated, i have done it a fair couple of times on old volvos just outside some supermarket with three wrenches. But having to drain oil, replace alternator, then find a replacement rubber hose, then filling it up makes the logistics a bit diffrent

[JoeIsuzu]

I don't know about the DIY question.

There should be no need to drain the oil. Both ends of the line are well above the level of the oil in the pan.

I almost repeated what Andy said above -- see comments from "puttputtinpup".

Jack

[puttputtinpup]

I don't know about the DIY question.

There should be no need to drain the oil. Both ends of the line are well above the level of the oil in the pan.

I almost repeated what Andy said above -- see comments from "puttputtinpup".

Jack

I wonder if Mintys (sp?) would still have new hoses, or if JLemond is still has or able to get new ones. That would be his best bet

[puttputtinpup]

Read through this. viewtopic.php?t=17581 meanwhile I'll look at other alternatives.

[puttputtinpup]

Could this or something like it get you going? https://www.amazon.com/OBQSNS-Diameter- ... 130&sr=8-4

[Boltass]

Could this or something like it get you going?

Read through this. viewtopic.php?t=17581 meanwhile I'll look at other alternatives.

This looks incredible.
Im guessing that plumbing type stuff will work good aswell as last longer.
Using some type of press nuts onto the barb bolts like Seer7 did might hold up and seal better than hose clamps.
Since this is stuff you can find anywhere it will probably be easier to DIY with this method.
I will do both i think.

With the alternator i ordered i got a new banjo + barb bolt for the alternator end.
However

My suggestion is buy two seals...whichever two come from the same shipping location (you'll see a truck icon after you pick the first one you want if it's from the same location). That way if one turns out to be a dud you have a spare. Not sure what you're seeing but the price they're showing me is a fraction of what a parts store would charge....so it's not gonna break the bank to buy two.

This was a good call, i ordered two, the first one i got was about an inch too small in diameter... The second one is on the way in another package, will see if it fits.

I have postponed replacing the alternator + hose until early july since i am studying at 250% rate highschool classes to be qualified for university. I am not even working at this time

Thanks for the help