IsuzuPup.com

You're describing a likely clutch failure. With nothing in front of your truck, set the handbrake (tightly), put it in 1st, and try to drive forward. If the engine revs but you don't go anywhere, and you smell a burnt-paper-like smell, it's clutch failure. Forgot to add, it could also be severe oil ...

Thanks, Mike! I used to have a 4ZD1 FSM doc that Oldistisuzuist sent me years ago, but it didn't want to open anymore; it gave me NXDOMAIN. Thanx for the new replacement. I'll try and save it in 'opened' format this time. Maybe the Site Admin can put that Planet link in the ref section of this forum...

Right, hope to help. I should've included '...primary and secondary carb circuit' in my last, as your other post stated it appeared to be running on the idle circuit only. Once the carb top (airhorn) is removed, you can undo and remove the emulsion jets/air bleeds for the idle, primary and secondary...

The advertised pressure of these mechanical pumps is 3.5 to 5 psi. Pull the coil wire, undo the fuel inlet hose at the float bowl, aim it into a glass jar, and spin the engine. It should give a healthy spurt. Let the gas set for a while and look for water separation. After that checks okay, does you...

Hey, fellow PNW-er! Under the hood, on the firewall, next to the brake booster, there ought to be an ID plate with vehicle data on it. Engine type of LW3= 2.3L 4ZD1. and whatever it says for "trans"....mine is an M75; yours might say MUA...but might say something else with your 2WD. But at...

One option, tho somewhat tedious, is to explore the 'Find A Factory Part Number' feature of this forum, under the 'Parts" heading; it's the ilcats.ru link. Find the part number of the component for your truck and see if it's the same for another model. F'rinstance, I just looked up the p/n for ...

If there's any 'grab' remaining on the threads, you might try installing the sensor through a blob of JB Weld in the hole (just don't get it on the sensor probe.) I don't think there's much torque required, just a vapor-tight seal. That stuff works great on materials like this, and it beats trying t...

Take a look at Dorman p/n 955180, available from Rock Auto. They're for a late 1980's/early '90's Ford Ranger or Bronco. I think somebody else on this forum went this route a while back. And that pic above looks remarkably like my truck, including the decal placement on the windshield! R/

Did you see that speedo cable on Ebay (item 382897302089)? It says they ship internationally. The ad says it's 150cm long, but don't know if that's for the cable or the housing. You'll have to read the ad to see whether it fits your truck or not. Someone else on this forum ordered one a while back; ...

Thanx for providing a follow-up. My thoughts ranged from an old trailer wiring job that disintegrated, to a burnt out bulb filament somewhere...nevertheless an unwanted ground. You could see that the switch worked, but it was being prematurely activated by the ground. Again, appreciate the fix-actio...

Welcome! Try rockauto.com for parts; their website says they ship to Europe. Don't know if they convert to the Krona./R

Something to consider: If the temp gauge/sender checks OK, how does the coolant look? While I was there (and Guam) I recall some people choosing to not run anti-freeze, but straight water as coolant...hey, it doesn't freeze here!! If in doubt, there's a wing-nut spigot at the bottom of the radiator....

Shaka! I acquired my p'up from the Lemon Lot, over at Hickam, in 1990 (I'm the 2nd owner). It should be discussed elsewhere, but I'll mention that it was common to remove the thermostat on vehicles while there. Used NAPA for parts, and spent a lot of time at Campbell Industrial Park raceway. /R

Your fan blower motor just might still work after cleaning it up. Years ago, I had a mouse issue in mine, and the excrement had corroded the hardware and wiring (the smell being the first indication, followed by mouse chunks spewing thru the ductwork before the motor died....spectacular!) Once remov...

My vote goes to agreeing with the diagrams shown. From my own experience, the splined hub in the disc center has a raised side and a flush side. The flush side goes towards the flywheel, while the raised side goes towards the gearbox (as in the diagrams). Too bad your new disc doesn't have "fly...