HEADER INSTALL ON 1.9L 4X4 LONG BED PUP

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WILD BILL
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HEADER INSTALL ON 1.9L 4X4 LONG BED PUP

Postby WILD BILL » Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:41 am

FIRST OF ALL, I AM NOT YELLING. I WRITE IN CAPS BECAUSE MY EYES ARE WORN OUT AND THE LARGE PRINT IS EASIER FOR ME TO SEE. I DO NOT TYPE, AND, AGAIN, IT IS EASIER FOR ME TO WRITE.

THIS POST IS AN ACCOUNT OF THE INSTALLATION PROCESS ON MY PUP (DE-SMOGGED)

I REMOVED THE AIR RAIL AND CUT THE FITTINGS OFF OF THE TUBES. I TAPPED THE FITTING TO 3/8" AND SEALED AND THREADED STAINLESS CAP BOLTS IN THE FITTINGS. THE BOLT ENDS MATCH PERFECTLY WITH THE FITTINGS.

AIR RAIL PLUGS CUT.jpg
AIR RAIL PLUGS AND BOLTS.jpg
HEAD AIR RAIL PLUGS.jpg


THE FIRST THING FOR ME TO DO WAS TO SEARCH THE FORUM FOR ANY AND ALL INFORMATION ON THIS SUBJECT. TO MY SURPRISE, THERE IS VERY LITTLE. I DID FIND PART NUMBER, ADVICE IN SEVERAL POSTS, STATING, WHAT PART# FIT WHICH ENGINE. I BEGAN THE PROCESS BY ORDERING THE CORRECT PART# FOR MY 1.9L.

I RECEIVED THE HEADER AND AS THE PICTURE SHOWS, IT IS A ROUND PORTED HEADER IN A SQUARE PORTED BOX.I IMMEDIATELY CONTACTED THE VENDOR AND POSTED THE ISSUE ON THE FORUM. I GOT RESPONSES FROM THE FORUM, THAT I HAD THE WRONG HEADER FOR MY TRUCK. NO LUCK WITH THE VENDOR AS THEY DIRECTED ME TO "PACESETTER".

PACESETTER  EMAIL.jpg


I CONTACTED "PACESETTER" AND AFTER SEVERAL CONVERSATIONS AND E-MAILS, I WAS LEFT WITH THE INFORMATION, THAT THEY HAD CHANGED THE DESIGN QUITE A WHILE AGO AND THAT THE 1105 AND 1125 WERE THE SAME HEADER AND THAT THE NUMBER DIFFERENCES IS FOR SALES/ADVERTISEMENT.

I HAD NO CHOICE BUT TO ACCEPT THIS AND BEGAN PREPPING THE HEADER FOR PAINTING. THE PAINT THAT COMES ON THE HEADER IS JUST FOR PROTECTION. IT IS NOT HIGH HEAT AND WILL BURN OFF. I COMPLETELY STRIPPED THE HEADER OF THIS PAINT AND LIGHTLY SANDED ALL SURFACES. I WIPED DOWN WITH ACETONE, HUNG FROM THE RAFTERS AND BEGAN SHAKING THE RATTLE CAN. I USED HIGH TEMP. ( 2000 DEGREE, CERAMIC COATING). AFTER COMPLETING SEVERAL SPRAY AND DRY STEPS. I LEFT TO DRY FOR TWO DAYS BEFORE I TOUCHED. THE PLASTIC BAG WAS PUT OVER THE NEWLY PAINTED HEADER FOR SCRATCH PROTECTION WHILE INSTALLING. THERE IS A CURE PROCESS THAT MUST BE CARRIED OUT (INSTRUCTIONS ON CAN)

READY FOR PAINT.jpg
PAINTED.jpg


THE FIBER GASKET THAT CAME WITH THE HEADER WAS NOT, BY ITSELF, ACCEPTABLE TO ME SO I SET OFF ON SEARCH FOR A BETTER OPTION. I WENT TO NAPA AND THEY HAD NOTHING IN STOCK, NEITHER DID O"REILLY. ADVANCE AUTO WAS THE LAST CHOICE I HAD AND ARMED WITH "CROSS-OVER" YEARS AND MODELS. I HAD THEM LOOK UP GASKETS FOR 1.9, 2.3, 2.6. THE 2.3/2.6 WAS THE OPTION I WENT WITH. I WAS, INSTALLING THE HEADER (ROUND-PORTED) DESIGNED AND SOLD FOR THE 2.3/2.6.

PACESETTER FLANGE GASKET EM.jpg
FELPRO PACE GASKET.jpg
HEAD GASKET FIT.jpg


THE GASKET THAT "PACESETTER" SENT NEEDED TO BE CUT A BIT TO FIT THE EXHAUST PORT. THE COMBINATION OF THE PACESETTER GASKET AND THE FELPRO IS A PERFECT FIT. I HAD TO MODIFY THE FELPRO JUST A BIT BY CUTTING THE METAL FLANGE AND REMOVING A SMALL AMOUNT OF MATERIAL. I DID NOT INSTALL THE SPARK PLUGS UNTIL THE HEAD AND HEADER WAS INSTALLED AND HAD NOT NOTICED THAT THE METAL FLANGE WAS CONFLICTING WITH THE PLUG WIRES. i HAD TO USE TIN SNIPS TO REMOVE PART OF THE FLANGE. IT LOOKS LIKE CRAP NOW ( SEE PICT.), BUT A 1/2" SANDING WHEEL ON MY DRILL WILL TIDY THAT UP.

I PRE-FIT THE HEADER AND FOUND THAT THE E-BRAKE BRACKET WAS IN THE WAY. I REMOVED THE BRACKET AND READIED THE GASKETS FOR THE INSTALL. I USED PERMATEX COPPER SPRAY ON BOTH GASKETS AND INSTALLED THE HEADER. THE CLUTCH ARM IS ABOUT 1/16" AWAY FROM THE HEADER TUBE. I FILED A SMALL AMOUNT OF MATERIAL OFF THE ARM TO GIVE A BIT MORE OR CLEARANCE.

I WAS SO HAPPY THAT THE HEADER WAS INSTALLED AND I WOULD WORRY ABOUT THE E-BRAKE LATER. WHILE WORKING AT THE COLLECTOR, I THEN, SAW, THAT I HAD MISSED THE ISSUE, THAT I WAS ABOUT TO BEGIN PLANNING, HOW TO REMEDY. THE HEADER WAS ONLY 1/8" AWAY FROM THE FLOOR BOARD, DIRECTLY BEHIND THE GAS PEDAL. NOT MUCH ROOM FOR CUTTING TOOLS WITH OUT REMOVING THE GAS PEDAL ASSEMBLY ( I DID NOT WISH TO DO THAT) I USED AN 1/8 DRILL BIT AND DRILLED AN OUTLINE OF THE PORTION OF FLOOR I HAD TO REMOVE. I MADE A PATCH OF TRIPLE LAYERED FLASHING I HAD LAYING AROUND AND ATTACHED TO FLOOR WITH WITH RIVETS AND SCREWS. HIGH TEMP SEALANT WAS USED BETWEEN METALS. IT TOOK A WHILE (MOST OF THE DAY), BUT I WAS ABLE TO INCREASE THE CLEARANCE TO 1 1/2". I INSTALLED INSULATING PADDING AND RE-INSTALLED FLOOR COVERING

HEADER FLOOR.jpg
CLUTCH ARM FLOOR CLEARANCE.jpg
FLOOR PATCH EM.jpg


THE COLLECTOR IS ABOUT 7 INCHES FROM THE CROSS MEMBER. THE PIPES/CONNECTION SHOWN ARE TEMPORARY. I USED A DOWN PIPE FROM MY OLD JEEP 258 FOR THE TEMP. INSTALL. IT HAS THE PERFECT DEGREE OF BEND TO FIT BY THE CROSS MEMBER. THE ENTIRE, 2" SYSTEM (CAT, MUFFLER,DOWN PIPE) TEMPORARY EXHAUST IS OFF THE 1986 JEEP CJ7 258. ALL IS VERY QUITE BUT THE BACK PRESSURE IS INADEQUATE

COLLECTORCROSSMEMBER.jpg
COLLECTOR CROSS MEMBER FULL PICT.jpg


I WILL BE INSTALLING A NEW HIGH EFFICIENCY (NOT STRAIGHT THROUGH) CAT. CONVERTER( GUTTED) A REVERSE FLOW/BAFFLED MUFFLER AND FLEX JOINT (ALL WELDED). ALL 2"

ALTHOUGH THE HEADER ADVERTISEMENT STATES THAT THIS HEADER "WILL FIT" IT, IS NOT, OR AT LEAST, IT WAS NOT, FOR ME, A "BOLT-ON APPLICATION"

ONCE MY EXHAUST TUNING IS COMPLETE I WILL PROBABLY HAVE MORE COMMENTS. AT THE CURRENT TIME, I CAN SAY THAT INSTALLING A HEADER ON THIS ENGINE WAS WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENTS

BILL
1985 Isuzu Pup 4x4 Longbed, 15" wheels, 1.9L Weber 32/36, Offenhauser Intake (de-smogged), Pacesetter Header (de-smogged), 2.5" Cat Convert, 2.25 Reverse Flow Baffled Muffler, 2.25" piping
Wild Bill