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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 11:09 pm 
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This topic is for feedback and follow-up questions for the "How-To Guide" on Diesel Injection System Troubleshooting. Just "Reply" to participate.

Again, thanks to Paul!

Jack

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:53 am 
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Location: Salem, Oregon 97304
Hi Paul- Great "Diesel Injection System Troubleshooting" article! If you felt up to continuing, I'd sure like to put dibs in that it cover some of the in-vehicle-correctable fuel leaks. :D

Newbie here. Regarding an IP fuel leak at housing cover seal; Specifically wondering if this is a straightforward R&R of Housing Cover...or am I going to be releasing spring loaded plungers, detent balls, foil shims & such when I pull the cover off :o ? I don't know what magic is contained or occurring inside at this mating surface. Any tips or considerations offered on this procedure would be appreciated.

Advance thanks!
-Dan
____________
My 1986 Trooper Turbo Diesel is currently without any start/run problems. It leaks quite a bit of diesel from IP while running. I bought a factory service manual off ebay and was disappointed that IP is treated as non-internally-serviceable. I surfed and found postings on this site by which I was pretty confident the CSD was leaking...I installed o-ring kit...I was wrong about the CSD leak (o-ring condition was actually pretty nice).

I re-cleaned/dried the IP exterior and explored source closer. Found your Troubleshooting article and determined what component I was looking at (thanks!). Now I'm confident that the Housing Cover seal is leaking (near the front half) and tracking down.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 11:58 pm 
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Hi Dan--

Sorry for the delay in answering. I did not pick up on your post right away.

OK, if the housing cover gasket is leaking you can try to tighten the four hex head bolts that hold it down. A ball end hex wrench will work best for this. Also, make sure that the fuel inlet fitting where it enters the pump is tight. If these do not stop the leak then it should be fixable by replacing the cover gasket which can be done with the pump in the truck, very carefully.

I do not recommend this repair for those without good mechanical skills. If you are not confident that you can do this I suggest that you visit your local fuel injection shop. These guys will be able to do the job for you.

-- Probably best to get a new gasket before you start this so the pump will not be open too long. While you are at it get a new throttle shaft O ring too.

-- Clean the exterior of the pump, Real Good.

-- Remove the fuel return fitting from the cover. This has two rubber hoses on it and a hard line that goes down to the CSD (cold start device). Need to do this so the cover can be removed.

-- Carefully measure the protrusion of the full load screw from the face of the cover. Just 1/16 of a turn will make a big difference in fuel delivery. Write this down so you can reset the screw to its former position after reassembly. Loosen the full load lock nut and back the full load screw out until it is loose.

-- Mark the throttle shaft and throttle lever so that they can be reassembled in their former relation. Unhook the throttle shaft spring to remove any tension on the lever. Remove the throttle shaft nut and pull the lever off.

-- Now you can remove the four hex head bolts holding the cover down. This will allow the cover to lift up some from the housing. Don't pull up too far yet. Now take a small hammer handle and tap the throttle shaft down through the cover. Be careful of the throttle shaft assembly as it is hooked into the control lever assembly and it will be best to leave it there.

-- You should now have the cover in hand, free of the housing. Inspect the cover gasket and also inspect the throttle shaft O ring. The O ring is a very common leak source.

-- Replace the cover gasket and O ring with your new stuff and put it all back together. No gasket sealer should be or need be used on the cover gasket.

--Use some engine oil on the throttle shaft O ring before you push/pull it through the cover bushing.

--Make sure you align the throttle lever with the throttle shaft as you previously marked them. Also, set the full load screw as you previously measured it.

Hope this stops your leak.

Paul

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:29 pm 
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You answered my question before I asked it. This is a great web site. I will do this task in the morning. Thanks. Glen

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:17 pm 
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How about a timming adjust how to. I cant seam to find anything on it.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:38 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC area
This sounds like my problem ..[.i'm a need pictures guy.] however, this particular part has [4] 10mm bolts. sits on the r or pas side of the pump. sticks out horizontzlly pointing directly into the r or pas wheel well, [and directly under the water filter!].

the top left bolt began to leak. just dripping. i cleaned the thing well. then polished what i could with a brass brush in case dirt got on protruding threads.i started the engine and slowly tightened each bolt. i was amazed how far they turned [at least 3 full revolutions of the socket] before they began to tighten when there was no thread visible . The entire time i'm turning the leak is getting worse. i tried backing off immediately but, that didn't slow it down. I hit a torque that i felt was a limit on tight and the leak just poured in a stream to the ground. I quit in frustration.

I went out the next day with my socket ,started the engine and proceeded to back off that one bolt....no change. whatever i did on that first tightening polished off any gasket or o ring that might be there. I re-tightened the bolt. No change at any point in volume just direction.

Now understand I'm unemplo...er..ah...self employed after my layoff and I'm in financial straits. I turned that thing one more time and I brought the head of that bolt back up w/ the socket.aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

What is this part,what is under that cap held by 4 bolts,where can i get the stuff under the cap and is there a good tool for backing out headless bolts with 3" of space?????

I have a factory book but, there is nothing on repair of the injection pump. Are there any diagrams available? I have 3 part #s 8-97328-886-4, 3 and 2. The ladder are supposedly old #s. i have an 81, 2.2. ain't that old?

as always thanks for the great site.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:13 pm 
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I had the same problem on my 86 mpg. I removed that cover and there is a large rubber ring under the cover. I think that part shrinks and causes the leak. I couldn't find the part at the time so I cut a 1/16" thick gasket and put it on the rubber seal. Not the cover. That tightened the rubber seal. That patch has been there for about a year with no problem. Glen

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:06 pm 
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Isuesyu,
what your describing sounds like the CSD. there is plenty of reading on this sight for you . sounds like your interested in removal. its possible to do.
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7773
http://mebonty.monobasin.net/vepump.html
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_bosch_ve_en.php

nate

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:41 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC area
Thanks for all the info. It allowed me to identify my part and it's issue. Now i've decided to keep my CSD if I can get the parts to rebuild it.

I had already disasembled mine before responses were posted and my 81 dropped 2 washers,spring and one small brass washer I can't figure out what it did..... I'm not sure what order or even how I will get them back in with the CSD horizontal.

Even with all the great info I didn't find a diagram on the CSD outside of the pictures offered in the first link of the response post. Did I miss them?

Does anyone on IsuzuPup.com have a kit for just the CSD? Or will I have to buy a complete rebuild kit and where I can buy if no one here has one?

i'm going back in for another peak at the info while I wait for someone to respond and tell me that it was right in front of my face.

i have rust in my eye but, that's another post.
thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:04 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC area
ok i found the diagram but, i still have an issue getting that smaller brass shim back in there. I don't want to remove the CSD .

Maybe the guy with the kit has a trick like fuel soluble grease or something.

I'm sure this one duct tape won't fix..


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:20 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC area
Joe i apologize for so many posts. i'm not thinking before i post.

all i need is replacement part help and i'm good.

lessons learned.
a. read all posts thoroughly before posting again
b. clean grease off of all parts before posting
c. exercise fat cells between ears before crying "i can't"to fellow pupsters before posting.
d. learn how to start a search engine before posting.
e. study parts design & application during all of the above and not necessarily in order listed before posting.
f. never,ever,post before any of the above.



thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:00 am 
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Isuesyu--

I just spotted your post. Re fuel soluble grease, we use ordinary vaseline for just that purpose when rebuilding VE's in our shop. So, if you need to keep something in place you can use it too.

If you need an Isuzu CSD part, I have some of these which we have removed when replacing with the VW CSD. I could not tell you what condition they are in but if you need something, let me know.

Paul

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:49 am 
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thanks for the vaseline tip. that should have been obvious to me. after i settled down I discovered that what I need is a rebuild kit for the csd.

the csd was leaking profusely. After tightening the bolts down the leak got worse so, i disassembled and the only thing i can figure is the ridged ring[mine isn't flat as i've read in other posts] inside the cap must be hardened.

i see no damage. the springs are good. i guess i just need that ring and if, they come with it i will replace the shims.

One fellow fed me an idea that also occurred to me was to put a gasket around the cap of cork or this paint on perma gasket. I'm ok with rigging but, i'd rather just rebuild if i can get the parts. I've been walking for a week and i'm feeling funny like i might be getting healthy or something. i'm not much for change. i like being a fat dumpy middle aged guy. it keeps the women off of me. i got one and that's more than i wanted.

I am in the charlotte nc area. there should be a diesel parts dealer here somewhere but, all i can find are repair shops. i guess it's possible one of them also sells parts but, none of them are advertising that they do. So, if someone can direct me towards a big ridged ring gasket for the lid on this CSD i'll be truckin again.

meanwhile i'm still searching .thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 5:38 pm 
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Thanks everyone especially, veggie nate for the great links. i found everything i needed in those links. I just had read them slowly several times before I realized it was all there.

The info on this site can be overwhelming to read under duress.

I found a diagram with part numbers so, I was confident in what i was ordering. I found a number and called a parts house in SC just over the border. I actually had a rebuild kit in my mailbox in 2 days ...in NC!

I was able to rebuild my csd with only isuzu pup diesel experience to speak of....and the help of some friendly people.

My truck quit smoking and still runs perfect at about 275,000.

Now I'm off to another forum for more parts.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:24 pm 
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Location: Caspar, CA
From a http://www.isuzupup.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6409&start=15#p39772, here is the part number for the CSD rebuild kit:

"ZEXEL(DIESEL KIKI) is 146600-2120 this is a part number for the kit that works for the csd.... this is a numlber for a company in charleston sc but they are very helpful 843-553-8331. you might give them a call, and ask for a local dealer... i actually called someone out in washington state, and he gave me a local number. the kit is the one that works, and the only thing is to access to the csd. but it can be reached through the passengerside wheel well. becareful, because the screws can drop out never to be seen again."


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