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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 3:00 pm 
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Location: Los Angeles, Las Vegas
Howdy!

Mid belt / head / water pump replacement right now, and I'm thinking it would be a great idea to pull the Crank pulley bolt off and replace the front crank seal (as it's both leaking AND included in the timing belt replacement 'kit')

I have a few questions for y'all:

Q: Is the bolt reverse thread? My guess is yes, but I'd love to hear your thoughts...
Q: Any thoughts on removing it without an impact wrench (My 1/2" drive impact is at work and my truck is at home, and my home compressor doesn't have the grunt to turn my impact).

Thanks!

Frank

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:20 pm 
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there are 4 small bolts that hold the crank pulley to a hub which fits onto the end of the crank w/ the large bolt. I know that when changing the timing belt that the pulley only needs to come off. Now, I'm can't tell you if the hub has to come off to replace the seal. Someone else might want to chime in here.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:32 am 
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Yes, The hub will need to come off of the crank snout to replace the front crank seal. I also know that the front main cap is exposed and not under the oil pan. This could make it a bit easier to replace the front seal. As far as removing the crank bolt.....That may be a bit difficult without a impact driver. Trying to think of a way to stop the engine from turning over while breaking it loose???? The treads are right hand threads. Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey!

Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 4:24 pm 
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Thanks, guys! 'Right hand threads' is a good tip.

I'm making a steel plate to bolt onto the crank snout, and welding a bar to the plate for leverage.

If I can upload a picture when it's done, I'll share...in fact, if anyone else gets in this situation and needs to borrow it, just pay for the shipping! I'm happy to spread the help.

Thanks, and I'll keep you posted.

Frank

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:02 pm 
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Ok...it's crude, but it did the job just fine. Maybe it was all the build up to it, but the bolt wasn't nearly the Leviathon I was expecting. It was tight, sure, but not a life changer.

Now...if I can only figure out how to post a picture of this special P'up tool...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23041538/Crank%20Tool.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23041538/Crank% ... handle.JPG

Seriously, it would be great if I could just post these here instead of links.

In any case, it worked like a charm, and I'm happy to lend it after the job is done (you pay shipping to and from). I know the second time around, I'll be a little more accurate with my hole placement (I was in a hurry)

{{Handle sold separately}}

Frank

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:14 pm 
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Handle is a solid, stainless 16mm rod that fit telescopically into the 16mm ID, 21.5mm OD tubing. A long 5/8" drill bit honed it out just fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14 pm 
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Location: Germantown (next to Elvistown), TN
paperstreet wrote:
Seriously, it would be great if I could just post these here instead of links.

I see you figured that out (next post). I've limited the size of "remote" images because if they're too large, they make whole page wide. It's better to upload them here, and the forum will display them in a size that fits the page. People who want to see the large version can click it and it will enlarge.

See "Can I post images?" in the FAQ section.

Jack

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:54 am 
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The easyest way to remove the crank bolt. Yout need a 24 size tool like this : http://tomnerszerszam.hu/shop_ordered/5 ... 07620L.jpg

Take the tool with fix rod to the crankshaft bolt, and rotate to the point where the tool and the frame meet. Then you turn the igniton key on to only a half second. Your starter motor will loosen the bolt...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:21 pm 
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Papik wrote:
The easyest way to remove the crank bolt. Yout need a 24 size tool like this : http://tomnerszerszam.hu/shop_ordered/5 ... 07620L.jpg

Take the tool with fix rod to the crankshaft bolt, and rotate to the point where the tool and the frame meet. Then you turn the igniton key on to only a half second. Your starter motor will loosen the bolt...



I've heard tell of such daredevil feats...I considered it...I really considered it!

Then I calmed down and welded a tool together (see above).

Thanks for the tip, though!

Frank

And Jack, thanks for the tech info on pics.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 12:44 pm 
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I always use the starter and a long breaker bar to loosen crank bolts. You just have to remember to do that first, before you take the timing belt off.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:46 pm 
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I would not recommend trying to take off the front main cap to replace the front main seal. It's unnecessary and you'll break the seal between it and the timing plate. Just get off the crankshaft timing belt cog, check the surface of it which rides against the front main seal for a groove - if it's grooved you'll need a new one or speedi sleeve. With that out you'll see a thin plate held in by three M6 hex cap screws. Remove those and use a pick to yank the old seal out. The front main seal seals against the timing belt cog so there's lots of room to grab it and pull it out unlike the rear main which seals against the crankshaft.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:01 pm 
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Thanks, guys

The front cog was grooved...but I'm desperate to have this truck running, so I put the new seal in with some grease and I'm gonna have to live with it.


I'm gonna search the forums about torquing the injectors down. I assume i need to buy a 30mm crow's foot to do it. I'll search, and if I don't find anything, I'll start another thread about it...

Thanks,
Frank

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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 10:01 pm 
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arrowmntdiesel wrote:
Yes, The hub will need to come off of the crank snout to replace the front crank seal. I also know that the front main cap is exposed and not under the oil pan. This could make it a bit easier to replace the front seal. As far as removing the crank bolt.....That may be a bit difficult without a impact driver. Trying to think of a way to stop the engine from turning over while breaking it loose???? The treads are right hand threads. Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey!

Mark


My bolt is loose already.
I have a question how to tight this big bolt and what is the torque spec.
Thank you
Tad


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 10:17 pm 
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I always snug the bolt in with air wrench, then take the breaker bar and turn clockwise till you feel some compression build. I have a piece of solid shaft i place down onto the end of the breaker bar with its tip just above 3oclock position and a few whacks with a 6lb hammer will take up anymore clamping of the belt hub.
I also use the breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter... dont try that with a cheap-0 bar though. Works on my monteros also.

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