Lex wrote:
Ok found the problem when they put the truck together they ran the starter solenoid wire right next to the battery cable there is two hangers on the oil pan that hold both wires in place there is no shielding around the solenoid wire and it had rubbed through and was grounding out the relay at first the relay would work but after a few starts it would over heat keeping the relay upon and burning up the relay and fusible link so for now it's working good. The solenoid wire is a 10 gauge black with white strip and has a connector next to the radiator on drivers side half way down the radiator that is where I cut and with heat shrink starter to replace the wire to the starter. Tranny is up and running with the tranny conversion and the truck runs smooth and less road noise very happy with the bearing in the newer tranny. I still have my volt light coming on every now and then so will be working on that next.
HI LEX ,SORRY IT HAS TAKEN ME SO LONG TO GET BACK TO YOU, , I HAVE BEEN HAVING TROUBLE AGAIN WITH MY PH LINES AND THE COMP WORKS SOME TIME AND THEN OTHERS NOT, AS ANDY MENTIONED AND YOU FOUND THE PROBLEM THOSE CLAMPS DO CAUSE A GOOD BIT OF TROUBLE , WHERE THEY WILL GET RUBBED THRU AND DO ALL SORTS OF THINGS, FROM RUNNING THE STARTER CONSTANTLY TO A COMPLETE DEAD SHORT, NOW I HAVE A SUGGESTION, SINCE THOSE WIRE S WERE SHORTED , ,THIS IS A GOOD BIT OF WORK , BUT YOU MAY WANT TO THINK ABOUT , THE MAIN HARNESS THAT RUNS UNDER THE RADIATOR, COULD BE DAMAGED BY THE SHORTED HARNESS , , THEY GET ALL HEAVY IN GREASE AND ANTIFREEZE AND THE COVERING DESENIGRATE OVER TIME , , ALL SO THE ALT WIRING RUNS IN THAT SAME HARNESS, THE RAD HAS TO COME OUT TO GET TO IT FOR INSPECTION AND ANY REPAIR,
ANY TIME ANY ONE REMOVES THE RAD THAT HARNESS NEEDS TO BE INSPECTED VERY THROUGHLY AND CLEANED AND RETAPED ,JERRY